Beauty - News

All About Blush
By Artemis

Blush is my best friend! As are mascara and lip-gloss. When I feel like I need a little pick me up, I swirl a little bit of color on to my cheeks, and I instantly look brighter!

I apply makeup to many women each week, and I often stumble upon a woman who says to me "Oh! I never wear blush!" When I show them how to successfully choose a color and how to apply it properly, they never say never again!

I have found that sometimes just a hint of blush is enough to brighten up any face, even if you have nothing else on! And when you have a full face of makeup on, but neglected your cheeks, then the face looks sort of dead. Blush balances out the face and adds beautiful dimension. Blush can be your best friend too!

But with so many colors out there and so many formulas, how do you know what to choose for your skin tone and skin texture? Many artists say that if you pinch your cheeks, the color that shows up will look best on your face. So for a natural blush, look for a color that is similar to your natural flush.

Ivory Skin: pink or peach
Beige Skin: terracotta or apricot
Bronze Skin: plum or corals

Powder : this is great for all skin types and should be applied with a full sized blush brush, and not the tiny brushes that come with many compacts. The tiny brush lends towards a streaky look. * should be applied after loose powder.
Try: Blush by Bourjois Paris

Gel : can look very sheer. Is great for oilier skin. *should be applied after foundation, but before powder.
Try: O-glow by Smashbox

Cream : will give dry skin a dewey look, but will make oilier skin look greasy. It is very easy to work with. I blend it using a foundation brush or a sponge. *should be applied after foundation, but before powder.
Try: Cream Blush by Nars

Liquid Stains : your skin must be very well moisturized as it dries very fast and if it is not blended right away with a sponge it will look blotchy. *should be applied after foundation, but before powder.
Try: Lip & Cheek Stain by Vincent Longo

The Rules:
Although, as a makeup artist, I do not believe that there are any rules in makeup because it is of course an art... there are a couple of "rules" I like to abide by....

How much is too much?
Start with a little bit so that you can add. That goes with anything when it comes to makeup. If you begin with way too much, and hate the way it looks, then you will be tempted to wipe it all off and start with a clean slate... which is too much work if you are in a hurry.

This easily happens when using a powder blush. What I always do is tap my blush brush into my cheek color and swirl it first onto a tissue. The object is to load the brush, but get rid of the excess color. Blowing on your brush, will get saliva all over your brush, so please do not do it. It is also unsanitary.

Then I apply it to the apples of my cheeks. It should start out looking like I am flushed, and if you wish to build up on the color, then go ahead. Just know when enough is enough. I always take my powder brush with nothing on it, and swirl over my cheeks afterwards to blend out any lines. Blush should look natural. It should brighten up your face, but not stand out.

Tip: If you get a little overzealous with your color, simply dip your powder brush into some face powder and swirl over your cheek color. This will diffuse your blush and soften your color.

Placement
No FISH FACE! Under no circumstances is it pretty... it lends to streaky looking blush. Blush belongs on the apples of your cheeks and is to be applied in a circular motion slightly upwards towards your ear. If you smile, you will naturally pop out the apples of your cheeks! This is where you place your blush. The location is about two fingers away from your nose.

Contouring
Please do not contour with your pink blush... or sweep it across your forehead and nose for that matter. If you wish to contour your cheeks, and get the Beyonce, J Lo, of Eva Longoria look, then follow these simple steps:

• Use a matte bronzer to contour. If you use a shimmery one, then you defeat your purpose. Shimmer reflects light, while matte colors do not. To rescuplt your face and create higher cheekbones, you should take an angled blush brush, dip it into a matte bronzer, and brush it into the hollows of your cheeks, and into your temples.
Try: Mary Kay Mineral Matte Bronzers Sandstone or Bronze Diva (depending on how light or dark your skintone is)

• Using a blush brush, apply your powder blush to the apples of your cheeks, and in a circular motion, sweep along your cheekbones towards the ear.

• Dip your brush into a powder highlighter and sweep that along the tops of your cheekbones. Try: Mary Kay Mineral Highlighting Powder in Pink Stardust or Bronzing Powders in Desert Sun or Canyon Gold (depending on how dark or light your skintone is)
Blend it all together with a clean powder brush, so that you look like a red carpet diva!

Bronzers
These are for all over color and that sun kissed look. I love shimmery bronzers. They give you a healthy glow! Using a bronzer brush or a kabuki brush, swirl into your bronzer, dust some off onto a tissue (as always) and swirl it over your face, where the sun naturally hits you. Across your cheeks, your forehead, nose and chin. And once again, using your clean powder brush, swirl over your whole face to make sure that it is all well blended.

Color Harmony
Blush looks best if it is in the same color family with your lips. So if your lip color is warm, like peach, coral, or brown then prefer a warm blush. If it is cool, like pink or wine, then go for a cool blush.

You should also make your color choices according to what you are wearing. If you are wearing brown, then go for a warmer lip and cheek color. If you are wearing and icy blue shirt, then opt for cooler colors.

Your makeup should simply make you look pretty and radiant. Choosing the right colors will do just that!

Tools :
• MAC Large Angled Contour Brush (for contouring w a matte bronzer)
• Sephora Brand Professional Bronzer Brush #44 (my favorite way to apply bronzer)
• Smashbox Blush Brush 16 (perfect for powder blush)
• Laura Mercier Crème Blush Brush (great for a smooth application of cream or gel blushes)
• Japonesque Powder Brush (for loose powder and blending powders on your face)
• Benefit Fantail Brush (great for a touch of highlighter for the cheekbones. Also great for lifting powders off the face without disturbing the rest of your makeup)